domingo, 21 de julio de 2013

DIY BASIC BRAS PATTERN-even big sizes.

DIY BASIC BRAS PATTERN- even big sizes.


Hi, have a happy day!!!!

I ´ll try to explain in English.
As you´ll see it’s not my own language. I hope to do it fine.




We use ruler, colour markers, pencil, scissors, measure tape, paper….







We use stretch fabric, with spandex.

WE DON’T USE EASE SEWING/SEAM.

MEASURE

RADIUS MAMA (RM): is the measure from down the bust to the point bust (nipple) or 10% off the bust circumference. Ex.; bust is 80cm the RM is 8cm




here we have a side view croquis/draw where we see how to measure the radius mama











CUPS



We draw a square with 2 RADIUS MAMA (RM) in both horizontals and in both verticals.
We mark 1 RM in both horizontals and in both verticals so we get a cross in the centre.






We mark up and down 2 cm in the right vertical line….

We mark down in the right and left corner, in diagonal 3 cm…

We mark down 2 cm in the left vertical line….







in the vertical centre line we mark up and down 1 cm at both sides of the vertical centre line….


in the horizontal centre line we mark up and down 1 cm at both sides of the horizontal centre line….




TWEEZERS



We join the marks getting 2 tweezers, one up and 1 down….








DART



In the upper line we mark 2 cm to the right and join with the mark in the right vertical line….







LOW NECK

Up and left, we join the tweezers side with the left vertical line…









UPPER CUP

we join the dart point (at the right side) with a soft curve to the centre horizontal line…








DOWN CUP

We join with a soft curve the 2 marks in each side of the square(left and right verticals)…










We join with a soft curve the 2 marks down in each side of the square…



WAISTBAND BRAS



We draw a rectangle, in horizontals we draw 2 RM+2cm; in verticals we draw 1RM+4cm…







We line up 4 cm from bottom line….
We draw a vertical line of 1,5cm in the left side , it’s the centre of the bras….

We draw a vertical line of 0,5cm  in the right side, it’s the part that joins with the back ….






We trample on the down-cup and we pour it out…..

Here we sew the down-cup (with the upper-cup seamed)


BACK


We draw a rectangle with 2 or 3 RM in the horizontals….
In the left line we put the same measure we get in the breast-band, more or less 10cm….






In the right line we mark up: 4cm, goes left 5cm, and goes up 4cm….







We join both 4cm marks in diagonal and then with the left line…


In the cross mark we put the shoulder-band/strings/ribbon…..






In the right vertical line, we draw marks, in these marks go the hook and eye, the clasp of the bras – back……




Well, as always we need to practice.....
Any doubt.... write to me ....

No hay comentarios:

Publicar un comentario