martes, 23 de julio de 2013

DIY Girl swimming suit

DIY Girl swimming suit


Hi, have a happy day!!!

I try to explain in English because several people ask me to do it.
As you see it’s not my own language, so if I use some word not properly I beg your pardon.


Today we do a girl swimming suit. We need the girl’s t-shirt pattern and the panty pattern too.


 
We use ruler, colour markers, pencil, scissors, paper….


 We need the girl’s t-shirt  and the panty patterns.




We use  fabric with spandex (stretch fabric).

WE DON’T USE EASE SEWING/SEAM.

We use the paper fold in two.


NOTE: 

THE LEFT VERTICAL LINE (DOTS LINE) INDICATES THE LINE WHERE WE FOLD THE FABRIC SO WE PUT THIS PATTERN LINE (DOTS LINE) OVER THE FABRIC FOLD.




We start with the upper part ……

We have the girl’s t-shirt pattern…..





 SHOULDER




We look for the middle of the shoulder and we mark it, we decide the wide we want, in this case are 2 cm…
We mark in the both sides from de middle mark the 2 cms……
We have 3 marks ….




 DART



In breast line and dart we draw down 2cm…
Join to the shoulder (blue line)








COLLAR/NECK

We decide how much we want to cut down, in this case we cut down 4 cms….
We join with the shoulder (dots line)








 BACK COLLAR/NECK



In breast line We decide how much  we want to cut down, in this case we cut down 4 cms from this line  or we may cut down to waist line…









WE CUT OFF THE SWIMMING- SUIT PIECES 


We use double paper, a paper fold in 2…
We have the upper side from the swimming suit….

We cut off all the sides pattern…




 We cut off  the front collar  (less sloped line,dots line) ….
  

  
 
 We separate the 2 papers and we have the front part and the back part…






 
In the back pattern we cut off  the back collar (more sloped line,dots line)..







WE JOIN THE SWIMMING -SUIT PIECES 


Now we join both patterns, the upper and the panty patterns…

We join both patterns, we join the waist line of the panty over the hip line in the upper pattern…





We join the patterns:  the front swimming-suit (upper part and panty) and the back swimming-suit (upper part and panty).





HOW TO CUT IN FABRIC THE SWIMMING -SUIT PIECES 

 We put the "left vertical line" "the centre line" of the pattern over the "fold line" of the fabric

We cut the fabric by the edge pattern, we don´t use easy seam.




As always…we need to practice….any doubt ask me....








lunes, 22 de julio de 2013

DIY BASIC PANTY PATTERN- even big sizes

 DIY BASIC PANTY PATTERN


I´ll try to explain in English, it’s not my own language. I don´t know well the seam words. I hope to do it fine.


We use ruler, colour markers, pencil, scissors, measure tape, paper….






 MEASUREMENT NEEDED: circumference hip. Italian measurements (cms)

We use fabric with spandex (stretch, elastic...fabric).

WE DON’T USE EASE SEWING/SEAM.

NOTE:  
THE LEFT VERTICAL LINE INDICATES THE LINE WHERE WE FOLD THE FABRIC SO WE PUT THIS PATTERN LINE   OVER THE FABRIC FOLD.

This pattern is useful to all sizes, even big sizes.



We start doing the  FRONT PANTY PATTERN.


We draw a rectangle with 2 horizontals, up and down, and 2 verticals, left and right, of course.

We mark the hip circumference  divide 4 less 2cm or instead the 2 cm, we use the discount that the fabric stretch let’s use (I have a video that explains this discount method) in both horizontals.

Ex: hip: 100cm divide 4= 25 – 2 cm = 23cm, we mark this 23 cm in both horizontals.

We mark the hip circumference  divide 4 in both verticals.




HIP LINE
 

We mark up the hip line: we divide the hip line  in half we add 1,5 cm more so we draw a line. (green line).

Ex: hip: 100cm divide 4= 25 + 1,5= 26,5 cm
 We mark up the 26,5cm and draw a line the HIP LINE. (green colour).






  CROTCH PIECE:


We mark 2 or 3 cm in the hip line from the left vertical to the right side (depends the elastic band wide we are going to use).
We mark 2 or 3 cm in the down horizontal line from the left vertical to the right side.
We join both marks with another vertical line (blue colour)




We get a rectangle, we divide in half with a little horizontal line and we get the down rectangle that is the "crotch piece".










In the down horizontal line we add 1 cm more and join up with the little horizontal line (blue colour).

From here we join up with a soft curve(here goes the thigh) to the hip line .

In the center of the upper horizontal line we mark down 1 cm and join to the vertical right line (this is to be more comfortable).





 we get this draw...


NOTE: we copy the crotch piece, we have twice the crotch piece and we use ALWAYS cotton fabric in the inner- piece.





BACK PANTY PATTERN.

We do a rectangle with 2 horizontals, up and down, and 2 verticals, left and right, of course.

We mark the round measure hip divide 4 less 2cm or instead the 2 cm, we use the discount that the fabric stretch let’s use (I have a video that explains this discount method) in both horizontals.

Ex: hip: 100cm divide 4= 25 – 2 cm = 23cm, we mark this 23 cm in both horizontals.

We mark the hip circumference divide 4, in both verticals.



HIP LINE

We mark up the hip line: we divide the hip line  in half, we add 1,5 cm more so  we draw a line. (green line).


Ex: hip: 100cm divide 4= 25 + 1,5= 26,5 cm
 We mark up the 26,5cm and draw a line the HIP LINE. (green colour).








We mark 3 to 4 cm in the lower horizontal line….
We join this mark to the hip line….
We mark up 1 to 6 cm (depends how much “pompis” you have, more “pompis” more cm)
We join this mark to the right in vertical line.

NOTE: “pompis” = buttock ….. 




 NOTE: ANOTHER WAY TO DO THESE PATTERNS IS TO FOLD THE PAPER IN HALF AND DRAW ALL THE  STEPS IN THE SAME PAPER. WHEN WE CUT WE SEPARATE BOTH PATTERNS, FRONT AND BACK PARTS.

AS ALWAYS…WE NEED TO PRACTICE…..


domingo, 21 de julio de 2013

DIY BASIC BRAS PATTERN-even big sizes.

DIY BASIC BRAS PATTERN- even big sizes.


Hi, have a happy day!!!!

I ´ll try to explain in English.
As you´ll see it’s not my own language. I hope to do it fine.




We use ruler, colour markers, pencil, scissors, measure tape, paper….







We use stretch fabric, with spandex.

WE DON’T USE EASE SEWING/SEAM.

MEASURE

RADIUS MAMA (RM): is the measure from down the bust to the point bust (nipple) or 10% off the bust circumference. Ex.; bust is 80cm the RM is 8cm




here we have a side view croquis/draw where we see how to measure the radius mama











CUPS



We draw a square with 2 RADIUS MAMA (RM) in both horizontals and in both verticals.
We mark 1 RM in both horizontals and in both verticals so we get a cross in the centre.






We mark up and down 2 cm in the right vertical line….

We mark down in the right and left corner, in diagonal 3 cm…

We mark down 2 cm in the left vertical line….







in the vertical centre line we mark up and down 1 cm at both sides of the vertical centre line….


in the horizontal centre line we mark up and down 1 cm at both sides of the horizontal centre line….




TWEEZERS



We join the marks getting 2 tweezers, one up and 1 down….








DART



In the upper line we mark 2 cm to the right and join with the mark in the right vertical line….







LOW NECK

Up and left, we join the tweezers side with the left vertical line…









UPPER CUP

we join the dart point (at the right side) with a soft curve to the centre horizontal line…








DOWN CUP

We join with a soft curve the 2 marks in each side of the square(left and right verticals)…










We join with a soft curve the 2 marks down in each side of the square…



WAISTBAND BRAS



We draw a rectangle, in horizontals we draw 2 RM+2cm; in verticals we draw 1RM+4cm…







We line up 4 cm from bottom line….
We draw a vertical line of 1,5cm in the left side , it’s the centre of the bras….

We draw a vertical line of 0,5cm  in the right side, it’s the part that joins with the back ….






We trample on the down-cup and we pour it out…..

Here we sew the down-cup (with the upper-cup seamed)


BACK


We draw a rectangle with 2 or 3 RM in the horizontals….
In the left line we put the same measure we get in the breast-band, more or less 10cm….






In the right line we mark up: 4cm, goes left 5cm, and goes up 4cm….







We join both 4cm marks in diagonal and then with the left line…


In the cross mark we put the shoulder-band/strings/ribbon…..






In the right vertical line, we draw marks, in these marks go the hook and eye, the clasp of the bras – back……




Well, as always we need to practice.....
Any doubt.... write to me ....

domingo, 7 de julio de 2013

DIY LADY’S JOGGING TROUSER- even big sizes.

DIY LADY’S JOGGING TROUSER- even big sizes.

Hi, have a happy day!!!!


I `ll try to explain in English.
As you`ll see it’s not my own language.
I hope to do it fine.


Today we do a LADY’S JOGGING TROUSER



We use ruler, colour markers, pencil, scissors, measure tape, paper....







We use stretch fabric.

WE DON’T USE EASE SEW.

We use the paper fold in two.

NOTE: if you want your jogging be ease then add 3 to 6 cm to the pattern.

NOTE: 
THE LEFT VERTICAL LINE (DOTS LINE) INDICATES THE LINE WHERE WE FOLD THE FABRIC SO WE PUT THIS PATTERN LINE (DOTS LINE) OVER THE FABRIC FOLD.




MEASURES NEEDED

WAIST: is the measure we use around waist without holding and without ease.

HIP: is the measure we use around hip without holding and without relaxing.

LONG WANTED: is the measure we wanted plus the hems.

KNEE LINE: is the measure we take from the waist to the knee and to draw the knee line.

HEMS: 2cm to sew the waistband and 4 cm for the hem in the bottom of the jogging.

WAISTBAND: is the elastic wide plus 2 cm to sew plus 1 cm to relax.

CROTCH: is one quarter measure from the hip, the hip divided in 4.

BACK CROTCH: we use the following notes board after we did the back pattern.

 S, from 80 to 90 cm hip round, we put up 1 a 2 cm
M, from 90 to 100 cm  hip round, we put up 2 ó 3 cm
L, from100 to 110cm  hip round, we put up 4 ó 5 cm
Talla XL, from 110 to120 cm hip round, we put up 6 cm


FRONT HOOK: is the measure resulting from divide the hip in 7 and we use to make the jogging front.

BACK HOOK: is the measure resulting from adding to front hook 2 cm. and we use to make the jogging back.

NOTE: WE DO BOTH PATTERNS, FRONT AND BACK, IN A FOLD PAPER.
WHEN WE CUT OFF THE PATTERNS WE GET ONE PATTERN IN EACH PAPER.


FRONT PART

 
We put in the horizontals a quarter hip measure …
Ex., hip 100cm divided 4 = 25, this 25 goes in the horizontals.
We put in verticals the longer we want the jogging plus the waistband nd the bottom hem…
Ex.; long 60cm plus waistband: 3 cm plus bottom hem: 4 cm = 67cm









We join the waistband to the jogging.
We mark down the waistband line, we put 3 cm and draw the line (red colour).

We measure from the waist to the knee and draw the knee line(yellow line).

In the red line we mark a quarter waist, we draw a vertical line which is the crotch and we draw an horizontal line which is the hip line. (yellow lines)







In the hip line we draw a quarter of hip plus the front hook.
The front hook we mark in the crotch line (blue mark) and in the hip line (blue mark). We join both marks with a soft curve (blue colour)






MIDDLE LINE LEG



In the hip line we mark the middle and from there we draw down a vertical line to the bottom line (green colour)


In the knee line we mark both sides the green line, a quarter round knee (blue line).

In the bottom line we mark both sides the green line, a quarter round knee (blue line) so the bottom will be straight (blue line).



In the waistband centre line, we draw down 1 cm (to fix better) (green lines).



BACK HOOK


To draw the back hook we add 2 cm to the front hook…..

e join down with soft curve to the knee line and bottom line (green colour)

We join up with soft curve to the crotch (green colour)







In the back crotch line we add the measure we need (see down the measures) and join with the waistband (blue light colour)  

Use this measures:
 S, from 80 to 90 cm, hip round, we put up 1 a 2 cm
M, from 90 to 100 cm, hip round, we put up 2 ó 3 cm
L, from100 to 110cm, hip round, we put up 4 ó 5 cm
XL, from 110 to120 cm, hip round, we put up 6 cm





As always…we need to practice….