miércoles, 11 de septiembre de 2013

DIY BASIC SLIP PATTERN-EVEN BIG SIZES


DIY BASIC SLIP PATTERN- EVEN BIG SIZES


Hi, have a happy day!!!!

I try to explain in English.  
As you see it’s not my own language.
I hope to do it fine.  




We use ruler, colour markers, pencil, scissors, measure tape, paper…. 






We use:

·        stretch fabric (with spandex).

·        the paper fold in two.

·        Italian measurements, in cms.


WE DON’T USE EASE SEWING/SEAM.

NOTE: 

THE LEFT VERTICAL LINE INDICATES THE LINE WHERE WE FOLD THE FABRIC SO WE PUT THIS PATTERN LINE OVER THE FABRIC FOLD.

MEASUREMENTS NEEDED

HIP CIRCUMFERENCE:  is when we measure “round” the hip, not tight not loose, and we discount 2 cm (or what we need, see my video where I explain how to do the discount depending the fabric elongation) and divide in 4.

CROTCH LINE: is the measurement from the ¼ hip circumference divided 4.

How we do the discount? 
We stretch the fabric and we measure how much it stretches.
If stretches to 2 cm we discount 10%
If stretches to5 cm we discount 15%.
If stretches more than 5 cm we discount 25%.

Let’s start…..

SLIP FRONT PATTERN


We draw a rectangle with the hip circumference measurement divided 4 – 2 cm. in the horizontals.

Ex.: hip circumference = 100cm divided 4=25 -2= 23cm. This 23cm we use in the horizontals up and down.

In the verticals lines we use crotch line (1/4 hip circumference divided 4)

Ex.: hip circumference = 100cm divided 4=25. This 25cm we use in the verticals left and right.



 



HIP LINE:

Now we draw the hip line (red line). We look for the middle between the horizontals lines and added 1,5cm. We mark in both lines and join them with a line (horizontal red line)…..







CROTCH AREA:
We mark in the hip line and down horizontal line, 7 to 10cm (1/4 hip circumference divided 4), we join both marks (blue horizontal line)…. 


TWEEZER:
we mark 1 cm in the down horizontal line and we draw up 4 to 6 cm in the crotch line, we join both marks and we get the tweezer (diagonal blue line)…..







THIGH/LEG AREA:
from the point that joins the blue vertical line (crotch area) with the hip line, we mark IN DIAGONAL 5 cm (green colour), we join with a soft curve line (green colour) from the horizontal down line to the hip line at right……










STRENGTHENING PIECE:

over the upper horizontal line we mark (to the right) 3cm (1/4 hip circumference divided 4 – 2), we join with the diagonal green  of 5 cm in the thigh/leg.

We trample on this violet draw in paper folded and cut it.

We cut and separate the remains front part, side-slip, and the strengthening-piece (in violet).  

We add 2 cm for hem, to the diagonal-violet-line in both parts, to sew (join) the side-slip with the strengthening-piece (in violet).



SLIP BACK PATTERN
We draw a rectangle with the hip circumference measurement divided 4 – 2 cm. in the horizontals.

Ex.: hip circumference = 100cm divided 4=25 -2= 23cm. This 23cm we use in the horizontals up and down.

In the verticals lines we use crotch line (1/4 hip circumference divided 4)

Ex.: hip circumference = 100cm divided 4=25. This 25cm we use in the verticals left and right.


HIP LINE:

Now we draw the hip line (red line). We look for the middle between the horizontals lines and added 1,5cm. We mark in both lines and join them with a line (horizontal red line)…..












THIGH/LEG AREA:

We mark 7 to 10 cm or ¼ hip circumference divided 4, in the down line from the crotch line at left…

We join up this mark to the hip-line at right, we get a diagonal blue line that is the leg line….





Well, we finish the BASIC SLIP PATTERN for men.


We may use this pattern as a swimming-suit pattern too, sewing the crotch-piece in both sides.


As always we need to practice….



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