domingo, 28 de julio de 2013

espero que sea pronto.....

Hola, ten un feliz día!!!!!

Te cuento que motivado a que me estoy mudando no sé cuando tendré internet....espero que estemos en contacto pronto....

miércoles, 24 de julio de 2013

DIY BASIC UNISEX T-SHIRT PATTERN- even big sizes.

  DIY BASIC UNISEX T-SHIRT  PATTERN- even big sizes.
  

Hi, have a happy day!!!!


I try to explain in English.
As you see it’s not my own language. I hope to do it fine.


 
We use ruler, colour markers, pencil, scissors, measure tape, paper….






THIS BASIC T-SHIRT PATTERN IS VERY USEFUL BECAUSE WITH IT WE`LL DO SEVERAL OTHERS PATTERNS.


We use strecht fabric (with spandex).

WE DON’T USE EASE SEWING/SEAM.

We use the paper fold in two.


NOTE: if you want your t-shirt to be ease then add 3cm to the pattern.

NOTE: 

THE LEFT VERTICAL LINE (DOTS LINE) INDICATES THE LINE WHERE WE FOLD THE FABRIC SO WE PUT THIS PATTERN LINE (DOTS LINE) OVER THE FABRIC FOLD.


MEASUREMENTS NEEDED

NECK CIRCUMFERENCE: we measure around the neck.
BUST CIRCUMFERENCE: we measure around the bust.
BACK WIDE: we measure in the back, point-shoulder in the left to point-shoulder in the right side.
WAIST LINE: we measure from the neck to the waist and draw a horizontal line.
WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE: we measure around the waist
HIP CIRCUMFERENCE: we measure around the hip.
HIP LINE: we measure from the neck to the hip and draw a horizontal line.
SHOULDER: we measure from the neck to the point-shoulder (where it joins with the arm).

LENGTH SLEEVE: we measure from the point-shoulder to the elbow or wrist, as we like.
WIDE SLEEVE: we measure the upper-arm circumference and the elbow or wrist circumference, where ends the sleeve.

WE USE ITALIAN MEASUREMNT in cms.


BASIC T-SHIRT PATTERN



FRONT PART
 
We draw a rectangle with ¼ hip circumference in horizontal lines and the t-shirt length we like…











 NECK

In the upper horizontal line we mark 1/6 neck circumference plus 1,5cm (blue mark)….
In the left vertical line we mark 1/6 neck circumference plus 3cm (blue mark)….

We join with a soft curve…..








  


SHOULDER

In the upper horizontal line we mark the shoulder length (red line)….



We mark down 1/6 divide in half, and join with the neck mark with a diagonal line (brown line)….we get the shoulder….





  

DART


We draw a vertical line (green line) that has ¼ bust circumference for woman; or half back wide for man…
Here we draw the bust line….(horizontal green line)











In this vertical green line we look for half and enter 2 cms ….
In bust/chest line and the vertical line we draw up 3 cms…..
We join in soft curve all the marks……we get the dart….









SIDE SEAM





We join the bust/chest line with the hem line (red vertical line)….


To make the t-shirt tight:

We measure from neck to waist and draw the waist line(green color), in this line we mark ¼ waist circumference ….

We measure from neck to hip and draw the hip line(blue grey color), in this line we mark ¼ hip circumference….

The hem line is the hip line(blue grey color), we mark the hip circumference plus 3 cms for the hem…..

Then, we join bust/chest line (red color) mark, waist line mark (green color), hip line mark and hem line mark (blue grey color)... we get the side seam….


BACK PATTERN

We draw the same all steps, except in the NECK we mark 1/6 neck circumference + 2cm in the vertical line.
In the DART we don’t enter the 2 cms.



  
SLEEVES PATTERNS



We fold vertically the paper in 2 (half) so we do the sleeve complete at once.

In the vertical we put the sleeve length….

In the upper horizontal line we mark ¼ bust circumference (woman) or ½ back wide measurement (man)…..




SLEEVE CAP  DEPTH


We measure 1/10 bust circumference and draw a line (horizontal blue line)



 DIAGONAL GREEN LINE: we measure the front dart PLUS the back dart with the tape “stand up” we DIVIDE in half…..
We use this measurement to join the left angle with the horizontal blue line with the ruler ….. we get the diagonal green line.




  


SLEEVE CAP




We divide this diagonal line in half….
Each half we divide in half too…..
We get 3 marks (brown)….











 In the 1st. (left) mark we draw up 1 cm…..

In the 3rd (right) mark we draw down 1 cm…..










BACK CAP SLEEVE 






 We join with a soft curve the 1st mark the middle and the 3rd mark (see the draw)…..(yellow curve)






 FRONT CAP SLEEVE


We join with a soft curve the 1st mark the middle and the 3rd mark (see the draw)…..(red curve)

 In the hem line, down horizontal line, we mark the half elbow circumference, if it’s short sleeve. (sorry, I didn’t draw it)

We join the horizontal blue line with the sleeve hem mark in the down horizontal line with a vertical line (sorry, I didn’t draw it)

We get the sleeve side seam…..




HOW TO CUT THE SLEEVE PATTERN

We cut off (in the fold paper) the back cap sleeve (yellow curve)….
We unfold the paper and cut the front cap sleeve (red curve)….
We follow cutting the sleeve side seam….

We get the sleeve pattern…..

 NOW, AS ALWAYS...WE NEED TO PRACTICE....


martes, 23 de julio de 2013

DIY Girl swimming suit

DIY Girl swimming suit


Hi, have a happy day!!!

I try to explain in English because several people ask me to do it.
As you see it’s not my own language, so if I use some word not properly I beg your pardon.


Today we do a girl swimming suit. We need the girl’s t-shirt pattern and the panty pattern too.


 
We use ruler, colour markers, pencil, scissors, paper….


 We need the girl’s t-shirt  and the panty patterns.




We use  fabric with spandex (stretch fabric).

WE DON’T USE EASE SEWING/SEAM.

We use the paper fold in two.


NOTE: 

THE LEFT VERTICAL LINE (DOTS LINE) INDICATES THE LINE WHERE WE FOLD THE FABRIC SO WE PUT THIS PATTERN LINE (DOTS LINE) OVER THE FABRIC FOLD.




We start with the upper part ……

We have the girl’s t-shirt pattern…..





 SHOULDER




We look for the middle of the shoulder and we mark it, we decide the wide we want, in this case are 2 cm…
We mark in the both sides from de middle mark the 2 cms……
We have 3 marks ….




 DART



In breast line and dart we draw down 2cm…
Join to the shoulder (blue line)








COLLAR/NECK

We decide how much we want to cut down, in this case we cut down 4 cms….
We join with the shoulder (dots line)








 BACK COLLAR/NECK



In breast line We decide how much  we want to cut down, in this case we cut down 4 cms from this line  or we may cut down to waist line…









WE CUT OFF THE SWIMMING- SUIT PIECES 


We use double paper, a paper fold in 2…
We have the upper side from the swimming suit….

We cut off all the sides pattern…




 We cut off  the front collar  (less sloped line,dots line) ….
  

  
 
 We separate the 2 papers and we have the front part and the back part…






 
In the back pattern we cut off  the back collar (more sloped line,dots line)..







WE JOIN THE SWIMMING -SUIT PIECES 


Now we join both patterns, the upper and the panty patterns…

We join both patterns, we join the waist line of the panty over the hip line in the upper pattern…





We join the patterns:  the front swimming-suit (upper part and panty) and the back swimming-suit (upper part and panty).





HOW TO CUT IN FABRIC THE SWIMMING -SUIT PIECES 

 We put the "left vertical line" "the centre line" of the pattern over the "fold line" of the fabric

We cut the fabric by the edge pattern, we don´t use easy seam.




As always…we need to practice….any doubt ask me....








lunes, 22 de julio de 2013

DIY BASIC PANTY PATTERN- even big sizes

 DIY BASIC PANTY PATTERN


I´ll try to explain in English, it’s not my own language. I don´t know well the seam words. I hope to do it fine.


We use ruler, colour markers, pencil, scissors, measure tape, paper….






 MEASUREMENT NEEDED: circumference hip. Italian measurements (cms)

We use fabric with spandex (stretch, elastic...fabric).

WE DON’T USE EASE SEWING/SEAM.

NOTE:  
THE LEFT VERTICAL LINE INDICATES THE LINE WHERE WE FOLD THE FABRIC SO WE PUT THIS PATTERN LINE   OVER THE FABRIC FOLD.

This pattern is useful to all sizes, even big sizes.



We start doing the  FRONT PANTY PATTERN.


We draw a rectangle with 2 horizontals, up and down, and 2 verticals, left and right, of course.

We mark the hip circumference  divide 4 less 2cm or instead the 2 cm, we use the discount that the fabric stretch let’s use (I have a video that explains this discount method) in both horizontals.

Ex: hip: 100cm divide 4= 25 – 2 cm = 23cm, we mark this 23 cm in both horizontals.

We mark the hip circumference  divide 4 in both verticals.




HIP LINE
 

We mark up the hip line: we divide the hip line  in half we add 1,5 cm more so we draw a line. (green line).

Ex: hip: 100cm divide 4= 25 + 1,5= 26,5 cm
 We mark up the 26,5cm and draw a line the HIP LINE. (green colour).






  CROTCH PIECE:


We mark 2 or 3 cm in the hip line from the left vertical to the right side (depends the elastic band wide we are going to use).
We mark 2 or 3 cm in the down horizontal line from the left vertical to the right side.
We join both marks with another vertical line (blue colour)




We get a rectangle, we divide in half with a little horizontal line and we get the down rectangle that is the "crotch piece".










In the down horizontal line we add 1 cm more and join up with the little horizontal line (blue colour).

From here we join up with a soft curve(here goes the thigh) to the hip line .

In the center of the upper horizontal line we mark down 1 cm and join to the vertical right line (this is to be more comfortable).





 we get this draw...


NOTE: we copy the crotch piece, we have twice the crotch piece and we use ALWAYS cotton fabric in the inner- piece.





BACK PANTY PATTERN.

We do a rectangle with 2 horizontals, up and down, and 2 verticals, left and right, of course.

We mark the round measure hip divide 4 less 2cm or instead the 2 cm, we use the discount that the fabric stretch let’s use (I have a video that explains this discount method) in both horizontals.

Ex: hip: 100cm divide 4= 25 – 2 cm = 23cm, we mark this 23 cm in both horizontals.

We mark the hip circumference divide 4, in both verticals.



HIP LINE

We mark up the hip line: we divide the hip line  in half, we add 1,5 cm more so  we draw a line. (green line).


Ex: hip: 100cm divide 4= 25 + 1,5= 26,5 cm
 We mark up the 26,5cm and draw a line the HIP LINE. (green colour).








We mark 3 to 4 cm in the lower horizontal line….
We join this mark to the hip line….
We mark up 1 to 6 cm (depends how much “pompis” you have, more “pompis” more cm)
We join this mark to the right in vertical line.

NOTE: “pompis” = buttock ….. 




 NOTE: ANOTHER WAY TO DO THESE PATTERNS IS TO FOLD THE PAPER IN HALF AND DRAW ALL THE  STEPS IN THE SAME PAPER. WHEN WE CUT WE SEPARATE BOTH PATTERNS, FRONT AND BACK PARTS.

AS ALWAYS…WE NEED TO PRACTICE…..


domingo, 21 de julio de 2013

DIY BASIC BRAS PATTERN-even big sizes.

DIY BASIC BRAS PATTERN- even big sizes.


Hi, have a happy day!!!!

I ´ll try to explain in English.
As you´ll see it’s not my own language. I hope to do it fine.




We use ruler, colour markers, pencil, scissors, measure tape, paper….







We use stretch fabric, with spandex.

WE DON’T USE EASE SEWING/SEAM.

MEASURE

RADIUS MAMA (RM): is the measure from down the bust to the point bust (nipple) or 10% off the bust circumference. Ex.; bust is 80cm the RM is 8cm




here we have a side view croquis/draw where we see how to measure the radius mama











CUPS



We draw a square with 2 RADIUS MAMA (RM) in both horizontals and in both verticals.
We mark 1 RM in both horizontals and in both verticals so we get a cross in the centre.






We mark up and down 2 cm in the right vertical line….

We mark down in the right and left corner, in diagonal 3 cm…

We mark down 2 cm in the left vertical line….







in the vertical centre line we mark up and down 1 cm at both sides of the vertical centre line….


in the horizontal centre line we mark up and down 1 cm at both sides of the horizontal centre line….




TWEEZERS



We join the marks getting 2 tweezers, one up and 1 down….








DART



In the upper line we mark 2 cm to the right and join with the mark in the right vertical line….







LOW NECK

Up and left, we join the tweezers side with the left vertical line…









UPPER CUP

we join the dart point (at the right side) with a soft curve to the centre horizontal line…








DOWN CUP

We join with a soft curve the 2 marks in each side of the square(left and right verticals)…










We join with a soft curve the 2 marks down in each side of the square…



WAISTBAND BRAS



We draw a rectangle, in horizontals we draw 2 RM+2cm; in verticals we draw 1RM+4cm…







We line up 4 cm from bottom line….
We draw a vertical line of 1,5cm in the left side , it’s the centre of the bras….

We draw a vertical line of 0,5cm  in the right side, it’s the part that joins with the back ….






We trample on the down-cup and we pour it out…..

Here we sew the down-cup (with the upper-cup seamed)


BACK


We draw a rectangle with 2 or 3 RM in the horizontals….
In the left line we put the same measure we get in the breast-band, more or less 10cm….






In the right line we mark up: 4cm, goes left 5cm, and goes up 4cm….







We join both 4cm marks in diagonal and then with the left line…


In the cross mark we put the shoulder-band/strings/ribbon…..






In the right vertical line, we draw marks, in these marks go the hook and eye, the clasp of the bras – back……




Well, as always we need to practice.....
Any doubt.... write to me ....